Crater	Fisheyes

Causes

Finish

Check the expiration date of the finish and be sure it has been stored in temperatures and an environment recommended by the manufacturer, or else it can increase the risk of these 2 finish flaws. Consult the manufacturer for recommended thinners, dry-time extenders, bond-enhancers, and other substances, if additives are needed. The wrong kind of substance or too much of 1 substance can contribute to these phenomena. Craters and fisheyes can also stay visible if existing ones were not removed before applying subsequent coats.

Application

An inadequately cleaned applicator is another reason craters and fisheyes appear. If the applicator was cleaned with a solvent that is incompatible with the finish, it can increase the risk of imperfections appearing on the surface, or excess water from washing the applicator may imbalance the finish defoamer system.

Craters and fisheyes can also form when finish is applied over a not-yet-cured finish or sealer, or if trapped air or solvent bubbles burst but don’t level out in time. Read more about the curing stages of finish here. It can also be a problem if a finish is coated over an incompatible finish or sealer such as:

• Perfluorooctane sulfonate
• Wax finished with urethanes or oils
• Natural oils finished with incompatible urethanes
• Incompatible finishes from different manufacturers

Click here to read more tips for applying finish.

Contamination

Wood floor surfaces can become contaminated when foreign substances such as maintenance products, grease, oils, polishes, soaps, sweat, and other contaminants are present before coating or have been introduced between coats. These contaminants can be dripped, spilled, or over-sprayed onto the floor surface prior to or during finish application. Contamination can also occur during mixing or packaging. 

Resolution and Prevention

If craters and fisheyes are discovered on the wood floor, there are a few options that may help resolve them.

• Screen and recoat the floor with manufacturer recommended applicators and spread rates.
• With a coarse to medium-grit abrasive, scrape or sand the area of the wood floor then move upward in grit sequence. If necessary, recoat and consult the finish manufacturer for final abrasives suggestions.
• A contaminated floor or finish may require sanding in order to remove the contamination and start the finishing process from raw wood. In cases where the floor cannot be resanded, replacement of the affected areas may be necessary.
• Fill the floor to block contaminates in voids or between boards with a trowel.

To prevent craters and fisheyes from forming, follow all manufacturer directions and recommendations prior to and during application, including conditions for applying finish and storage. Ensure the applicator is thoroughly cleaned before applying and avoid contact with substances that are not supposed to be on the floor.

To get in contact with a Basic Coatings representative with questions about preventing craters and fisheyes, please visit this link. For more information about the advantages of water-based finishes and sealers, click below:

• Why Choose Basic Coatings® Water-Based Finishes and Sealers for Your Wood Floor?
• Water-Based Advantages

Source: NWFA’s “Problems, Causes, and Cures 2018”

Photos courtesy of NWFA’s Problems, Causes, and Cures (3rd Edition, 2018).

The Color Wheel

The color wheel is a useful tool to determine what color masks the red of the Brazilian cherry the best. The primary colors are red, yellow, and blue and the complementary colors are green, purple, and orange. As seen in the image on the right, the primary colors and complementary colors sit opposite on the color wheel. The colors directly across from each other will “cancel out” when applied over the other. Using this logic, Brazilian cherry floors can transform to the desired color.

Green is directly across from red on the color wheel. It is key to 2 popular stain mixtures below for Brazilian cherry, because it cancels out red. With HyperTone Stains primary colors, achieving the green-toned stain is possible. Mix 4 parts of Yellow and 1 part of Blue. Adjust the color by adding more Yellow or Blue until the correct color is attained.

Bleached Look

Create a bleached color floor without the bleach. Add 60 parts of White to 1 part green to achieve the bleached look. For floors with a heavier red color, add 1 part Slate or Tobacco to the mix to help mask the red even more. 

Brown

To get a brown color without a red undertone, use 2 parts of Onyx mixed with 1 part Yellow. Because dark wood stains like Onyx have deep black pigments that derive from a dominant blue base, mixture with yellow will create a green tone. 

Darker Brown

Use Tobacco, a very dominant, opaque stain that can be applied on its own. Adding a small amount of white can assist in covering the red if needed.

Gray

Mix 6 parts White with 1 part Slate to create a paint-like tone that will mask the red. A gray color naturally covers color well, which is why it is often used as a primer on dark-painted walls as opposed to white primers. 

General Tips

Keep in mind the following tips to assist you in successfully staining Brazilian cherry.

• Sanding a floor will determine if more or less pigment will penetrate the wood. Check how much sanding is required. Read more about sanding and other procedures on exotic floors here.
  • Pro Tip: If your normal abrading sequence does not allow the stain to penetrate and adjust color effectively, try lowering grit size for final pass/preparation. For example, if 120 grit is your normal final grit size, try keeping it at 100 grit. This will allow for more stain to penetrate into the floor.
• Create test formulas to find the best ratio of colors that match the desired color. Click here to read more about using a test area to determine if the color is correct.
• Use a Clear Base to add transparency or cut color concentration as opposed to a Neutral base, because the latter contains warm tones that will alter the color. 

By manipulating HyperTone Stains and the color wheel, Brazilian cherry can be masked and transformed into a different color. Curious about red oak floors or tinting? Watch a webinar here and check out our blog post about tinting with HyperTone Stains here.

If you have questions about HyperTone Stains, please click here to fill out the online form, and your Basic Coatings Regional Manager will reach out to you.

Causes

Finish

There are several factors to be aware of before applying any finish. The finish should not be expired and be stored at the recommended temperature and environment. Check to make sure all the gallons being used are the same sheen, preferably with the same batch codes.  Regardless of sheen level, make sure you mix and disperse the products thoroughly per manufacturer’s directions Also, note that changing sheens between coats can affect the consistency of the final sheen.

If the finish needs additives, like dry-time extenders, catalyst, etc., only use those recommended by the manufacturer in the specified amounts. 

Application

Check average temperature at the job site. High temperatures and excessive air movement can dry the finish too quickly and possibly result in uneven flow and inconsistent leveling/sheen on the wood floor. Cooler temperatures will affect the finish as well. To learn more about how temperature can affect the finish drying process, click here.

In preparation for application, make sure the applicator has not been contaminated and that the finish is properly mixed. Be certain that any previously applied coat is completely dry to avoid trapping solvents that create an uneven sheen level. After the finish has been properly mixed, apply the finish with an even amount of pressure. Different pressures can lead to thickness inconsistencies across a floor, leaving visible sheen variations.

For jobs that require more than 1 gallon of finish, it is a best practice to correctly bundle and batch the finish by pouring all of it into a larger container. Sheen can vary from container to container. By combining them into 1, it will help ensure a more consistent sheen level.

Other

The following issues can also cause uneven sheen and levels of gloss.

• Heavy foot traffic
• Uneven sanding
• Natural characteristics of the wood used
• Natural oils from exotic wood that influence the drying process
• Cracks or voids that were left unfilled
• Optical illusions from lighting, height, elevation, etc.

Prevention and Resolution

To prevent an uneven gloss, consider the job site and its conditions before starting. Evaluate any factors that could affect the drying of the finish. Research the wood species being used to be aware of any characteristics that could influence the final result.

If the floor appears to have an uneven sheen and gloss level, double-check that all cleaning procedures are being followed and use cleaning products recommended by the manufacturer. For a quick and easy solution, TyKote® Recoat Bonding Agent may be applied with another coat of finish on top to correct any inconsistencies. TyKote produces zero dust and does not require the use of heavy equipment or intensive labor for application. It can be applied to almost all hardwood flooring and only takes half a day to complete a refinish job. For more information about the TyKote Dust-Free Refinishing System, click here.

As another solution, a contractor utilized HyperTone™ Stains to tint finish and resolve a color and sheen variance in a home. Read more here.

For older floors that appear to have lost their sheen, sunlight exposure may be to blame. Overexposure to the sun can affect the look of your floors, including the sheen level. Read more here to learn how to protect your floors from sun exposure.

If you have questions about how to prevent or fix uneven levels of sheen and gloss, please click here to fill out the online form, and your Basic Coatings Regional Manager will reach out to you.

Source: NWFA’s “Problems, Causes, and Cures 2018”

Photo courtesy of NWFA’s Problems, Causes, and Cures (3rd Edition, 2018).

Once completed, Tony knew he had a challenge on his hands. Instead of the 2 coats of finish helping to blend in the color, it actually made the color discrepancy more noticeable. After some detective work, it was discovered that the homeowner was wrong on the species of existing flooring, and instead of the floor being white oak, it was actually ash. So, as it turns out, the new white oak was actually weaved into existing ash flooring.

The white oak (near) was weaved into existing ash (far).

The homeowner loved the refurbished floor but agreed something had to be done to fix the difference in color. They did not, however, want to have to sand the flooring again, and they were definitely not interested in tearing out all the ash. Tony told us, “They realized that even if they sanded the floor down to bare wood again, the ash would have to be stained/finished differently than the white oak if they wanted things to match up.”

Tony had seen a number of posts from contractors on social media who were tinting Basic Coatings® finishes with HyperTone™ Stains, and he wanted to find out if this new method of applying color could be a suitable solution for this particular challenge. He contacted Basic Coatings, and after discussing his various options, decided to offer tinting the finish to the homeowners. Ultimately, they liked the idea and agreed to move forward with fixing the floor using HyperTone Stains as tint as follows.

Step 1: The white oak was covered with blue tape at all the seams, and the ash was left uncovered/open.
Step 2: HyperTone Stain was mixed into StreetShoe® NXT (in this case, 3 ounces of Tobacco per gallon of finish).	Steps 3 and 4: The first and second coats of tint/finish were applied to the ash portions of the flooring.
Step 5: A top clear coat of finish was applied.	Step 6: The tape was removed.

The Problem

Most of these polish products contain acrylic and stick to the floor really well when dried. Due to low-quality solids and weak chemical bonds within the formulas, however, the new layer of polish rapidly becomes hazy, scuffed, and sticky. So, what do most homeowners do? They apply more polish to their floor to improve its appearance, beginning a vicious cycle that repeats until it dawns on them—usually many coats later—that their hardwoods now need professional help.

In steps a hardwood floor professional, who likely recommends:

• Sanding and refinishing in the case of solid or engineered wood floors that are sandable ($$).
• Tearing out and replacing textured, handscraped, or engineered wood floors that are too thin to be sanded. ($$$) 

What if we told you that there is another option, and that under the acrylic mess, there could be a perfectly good wood floor in need of simple a recoat or nothing at all?

The Solution

Contrary to misguided advice on the web, the answer is not vinegar, ammonia, or abrasive powders, all of which can cause etching in the wood’s surface, harm finish, and take years off a wood floor’s life. The solution, we humbly submit, is Basic Coatings^® Dissolver^™, a product that is specifically formulated to quickly and easily remove acrylic-based polishes while still being gentle on  hardwood floors. 

How does it work?

A proprietary blend of solvents, such as benzyl alcohol and glycol ethers, work in conjunction with alkaline organic compounds, like Monoethanolamine (or MEA), to act as a lock-and-key mechanism with acrylic floor polish’s cross-linking. This action results in the “unlocking” of polymer chains and allows the plastic film to be emulsified back into the stripping solution, which can then be picked up in a liquid form. 

How is it used?

Before using this product, the presence of acrylic should be confirmed by testing a small spot in an inconspicuous area using an acrylic test kit or a drop of Dissolver (a bluish white dot where the solution was applied indicates a positive result for acyclic).   

Then, removing the polish is just a matter of following the steps below.

1. Careful not to over wet the floor, apply Dissolver diluted with water at the ratio specified in the directions on the label. A pump-up garden sprayer works well for this task, and it is best to work in a small area to start, say 5’ x 5’. 
2. Allow the solution to dwell on the surface for a few minutes, then agitate. A buffer with a white scrubbing pad is ideal.
3. Then, pick up the solution with the emulsified polish. It is important to not let the solution dry before this step is completed. We recommend using a Basic Coatings Dirt Dragon™ Wood Floor Scrubber for this part of the process. On occasion, it might be necessary to repeat the Dissolver application.
4. Finally, clean with Basic Coatings Squeaky™ Cleaner to neutralize the chemicals in Dissolver that make the removal possible. At this point, the floor can be recoated if needed using TyKote® Bonding Agent and any Basic Coatings finish.

Want to see more visuals? Click here to watch a 3-minute video that outlines the floor polish removal process.

Acrylic buildup is seriously unsightly, but with the right tools, it’s a relatively easy and inexpensive problem to fix. If you’re a homeowner, please reference our contractor locator for a list of local professionals who can provide an estimate to rescue your hardwoods using Dissolver. To request a local Basic Coatings certified contractor contact you with more information about their services and pricing, please fill out the form here.

If you’re a contractor or distributor interested in learning more about these products or processes, please contact your Basic Coatings regional manager or fill out the form here.

Even experienced, high-quality contractors can run into problems with tannic acid discoloration, also called tannin bleed or tannin pull. Although tannin pull doesn’t always occur and can occasionally be difficult to spot when it does, the result is often sanding the floor twice (while still getting paid once), making an ounce of prevention with the strategies below definitely worth a pound of cure.

Photo credit: NWFA, “Problems, Causes and Cures 2018”

1. Take extra care preparing the floor.

Remove contaminants that may react with tannic acid by deep cleaning the floor before sanding according to accepted NWFA/MFMA procedures.

Most importantly for wood species that contain high levels of tannic acid, be sure to remove ALL dust, first by vacuuming, and then by tacking with a dry microfiber mop. If wood dust is not entirely eliminated, it can build up in the application puddle of the finish to the extent that even a light applicator mark leaves a darker layer of finish. 

2. Use a tannin-blocking sealer…correctly.

By and large, use of a tannin-blocking sealer is always recommended by manufacturers of water-based finishes to help combat alkalinity and moisture in their formulations. It is arguably most crucial when working on a color-sensitive project. These days, when we hear complaints of discoloration, it usually involves light-colored stains, such as grays and whites. On floors stained dark brown, tannin pull may be present but not visible.

The first coat of finish should be applied over the tannin-blocking sealer before any buffing, screening, or fine sanding of the grain raise, as this will provide a surface for finish coats to build while preventing or minimizing discoloration. Dry time—between application of stain or paint and sealer, as well as between application of sealer and finish—is also critical to avoiding tannin pull.

• For HyperTone™ Stains, it is strongly recommended that initial coats of sealer not be applied for 24 hours, even if moisture readings are back to the original baseline.
• For Basic Coatings® sealers and finishes, each coat should dry a minimum of 2–3 hours (in ideal conditions), with the goal of reaching original baseline moisture readings before proceeding to the next coat.
  

Need help selecting a tannin-blocking sealer? Basic Coatings® offers Raw™ Sealer, which is recommended specifically when preservation of the natural look of white oak is desired. We also offer Lock ‘N Seal™ for all other use cases working with species with heavy tannic acid.

3. Avoid puddling the finish, application trails, and applicator set marks.

Too much or not enough overlap in the working puddle can leave uneven areas on the floor or streaks, so even coats are critical. Achieve optimal results with a T-bar by following the directions in the video or steps a–c below.

1. Edge out about 6 inches from baseboard or wall with a paint pad or polyester brush. Stay within 2–3 feet of the finish line to avoid lap marks, streaking or thicker film build. Be sure to feather the edge.
2. Starting about 1 foot from the head wall, pour a 4-inch wide line of finish the length of the floor going with the grain. Stop about 3 feet from the opposite wall. As close to the wall as possible, hold the applicator at a slight angle and drag it in a “squeegee” or “plowing” type motion to move the puddle from one side of the room to the other. Overlap 2 inches of the last pass and pull parallel passes until the entire floor is coated. Brush out all turns, stops, and other applicator marks brushing in the direction of the grain of the wood. Feather out turns with a painters pad after the T-bar has made the turn. Add finish to the puddle-line when needed to maintain a wet edge across the room.
3. When 2–3 feet from exiting wall, begin to taper the puddle-line down to a nickel-sized bead. Back out of the room by wetting small sections of the remaining floor, brushing away from you in the same direction as the grain of the wood.

Using a roller instead of a T-bar? Check out an instructional video by clicking here.

By following these 3 tips, you can prevent tannin pull, even on color-sensitive projects. If you have questions about tannic acid discoloration or other issues you are experiencing, please click here, fill out the online form, and your Basic Coatings Regional Manager will reach out to you!

Cause

The main culprit of stain bleed back is failure to allow the stain to fully dry. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to ascertain whether or not stain has completely dried, because while it appears dry on the surface of the wood, an abundance of stain deep in the cell cavities is often still liquid.

Rushing to coat over undried stain too soon will only exacerbate the issue, as the stain that has “bled back” and the trapped solvents therein can create severe long-term issues, including poly-beading, peeling, and even complete finish failure.

Prevention and Testing

The only way to prevent stain bleed back is to allow stain adequate time to dry. It is also critical to avoid pouring stain directly onto a wood surface or allowing pools to sit, both of which cause stain to soak down into the cracks between boards.

Always read and apply stain following the manufacturer’s application instructions. Take note of temperature and humidity levels, as these can affect drying times. There are several options for testing that the stain has dried, including:

• Wiping the floor with a clean rag to detect wet stain.
• Using moisture meters are always recommended, but they can be inaccurate in testing whether stain is ready to coat—especially over cracks. They can also be affected by certain pigments or solvents in the stain.
• A less-well-known secret is using a vacuum hose directly on the stained floor on those areas that would be the most likely to still be wet, such as cracks and knots, to bring any undried stain to the surface. If excess stain appears upon vacuuming, allow the floor more time to dry and retest before proceeding
  

The unique nature of waterbased stains, like Basic Coatings® HyperTone™ Stains, will greatly reduce bleed back and related issues.

Resolving

Once bleed back happens, it can sometimes be amended by aggressively screening the floor and exposing the trapped stain. After allowing time for it to fully dry, touch up any color issues and recoat. If extensive stain bleed back has occurred below a finish film, however, the floor will require a complete re-sand.

If you have questions about stain bleed back or other issues you are experiencing, please click here, fill out the online form, and your Basic Coatings Regional Manager will reach out to you.

Photos courtesy of NWFA’s Problems, Causes, and Cures (3rd Edition, 2018).

Tinting Finish

For residential, commercial, and sport floors, contractors traditionally stain the properly prepared bare hardwood, followed by (a) coat(s) of sealer, and then finish.  This is still the predominant method to change the color of hardwood flooring.

Some contractors, however, have begun sealing the floor first, then applying coats of tinted finish. The benefits are numerous:

1. On the front side, this process is faster and provides greater control over the depth and consistency of color. 
2. On the back side (when it’s time to re-sand the floor), there’s less work, because contractors don’t have to take off as much of the top layer of flooring to remove the stain and/or worry about the stain seeping further into the tongue and grooves. 
3. Plus, because less sanding is required, more sandings are possible, saving customers significant costs over the life of the floor.

HyperTone Stains is roughly 10% of the cost. When you add the cost of finish plus stain, there’s a whopping 23% savings!

But the advantages don’t stop there.

Spurred by all the buzz, we worked with a sport contractor to quantify the benefits in terms of their savings.  We kept things simple—1 gallon of finish with comparable paint and stain levels—and the results showed that HyperTone Stains is roughly 10% of the cost. When you add the cost of finish plus stain, there’s a whopping 23% savings!

Paint Versus Tinting Finish

Although stain was applied to plenty of sport floors in the past, use skyrocketed once the MFMA recognized the practice at their convention in 2018. While paint for game lines and logos continues to be the dominant process, we have encountered sport floor contractors using a heavier load of HyperTone Stains to tint finish instead—again, with various upsides:

1. Using the same product for lines/logos as the finish could reduce chipping that is often seen with paint (time will tell if this holds true, but so far, so good).
2. Significant reduction in the cost of paint—both in the number of gallons purchased and the paint gallons that go unused due to shelf life. 
3. When the paint lines or painted logos are abraded (to prepare to accept finish coats), the heavily pigmented colored dust from the paint can contaminate adjacent colors (or flooring), which can be tough to prevent or remove (for example, a bright red paint logo contaminating the adjacent white).  When HyperTone Stain is encapsulated into the finish and used like a paint, the pigment load is reduced significantly, and the issue is virtually eliminated. 
   

We again calculated the cost savings when working with a contractor to tint the finish with heavier pigment loads, so the product could be tested in lieu of game line/logo paint.  When comparing 1 gallon of stain plus finish with comparable game line paint, tinting finish was roughly half the price! While this may or may not be a savings large enough to make the switch for any one job, just like tinting the finish above, the contractor sees tremendous cost advantages over the entire season. 

When comparing 1 gallon of stain plus finish with comparable game line paint, tinting finish was roughly half the price!

Ultimately, the jobsite benefits and cost savings have more contractors rethinking processes to improve their offering. If this is something that might interest you, let us know by clicking here to fill out the online form. We’ll be more than happy to work with you to see if these or other innovative HyperTone Stain application methods could enhance the value of your operation, as well as calculate your potential savings.

To learn more about HyperTone Stains, please click here. 

The Story

In late April of this year, a Basic Coatings® Regional Manager was called by a contractor who had experienced a picture framing issue on a previous job and was looking for some advice. On their recent project, they had stained a floor, applied sealer and finish, then noticed the stain had different sheens between the perimeter and field of the floor. In that particular case, the edges could be best described as having a burnished look. 

The Regional Manager visited a new project with the contractor and noticed the contractor’s sanding sequence was fine for both the drum sander and the edger—36 grit, then 50, followed by 80, and finally 100, concluding with a 120-grit screen. However, he also noticed that the paper on the edger was not being changed as frequently as it should have been, so he recommended changing it more frequently.

Once proper sanding was completed, the application of stain, sealer, and finish was consistent and even throughout the floor, including along the edges.

Lo and behold, no picture frame.

The Regional Manager and contractor both agreed that by not changing the paper on the edger fast enough on his previous job, the contractor was, unbeknownst to him, burnishing the wood along the perimeter and closing the grain. The edger, cutting at a much finer grit, was essentially polishing the wood along the edges.

The Simple Secret

Edging is hard, grueling work. Often, contractors want to finish as quickly as possible, which sometimes results in less frequently stopping to change the paper on the edger. Keeping the paper fresh early and often, however, can eliminate picture frames in the final product.

Even if paper feels sharp, it very well may be beyond its prime, which is why the best way to judge whether paper is due for changing is by square footage. 

Ultimately, edgers should be used to reproduce how the rest of the floor was prepared.  This will give you the best chance to blend the stain, sealer, and finish to give you a great looking floor.

If you have questions about picture framing or other issues you are experiencing, please click here, fill out the online form, and your Basic Coatings Regional Manager will reach out to you. 

With how these numbers stack up, who wouldn't use the Basic Coatings® TyKote® Refinishing System with StreetShoe® NXT over a screen and recoat with OMU?

Curious to see how we came up with these figures? Click here to check out the math for yourself.

Wondering how other Basic Coatings® systems compare? Reach out to your Regional Manager to find out!

Basic Coatings® provides a product that can solve these issues. Squeaky™ Cleaner for wood, LVT/SPC, and laminate flooring is specially made to dissolve oil-based soils in one pass. This is how Squeaky can help you!

Advantages:
1. Wood Floor Cleaner: Squeaky is specifically formulated to clean hardwood floors without leaving an oily residue behind for a streak free appearance!
2. De-foaming: Squeaky has significantly better de-foaming capabilities than neutral cleaners.
3. Dry Time: The alcohol and solvents in Squeaky assist in the prevention of hardwood floor cupping from water-solution-related issues.

We want your floors to be as squeaky clean as much as you do!   Squeaky Cleaner Wood Floor Cleaner is available in kits, concentrated, ready-to-use, and in various packaging sizes.

Instructions for Removing Oil Soap Cleaners with Squeaky Ready-to-Use

Supplies needed:
• Basic Coatings Squeaky Cleaner
• Basic Coatings microfiber mop
• Rubber/latex gloves and safety glasses

Process:
1. Sweep or vacuum the wood floor.
2. Spray Squeaky Cleaner on a Basic Coatings Microfiber Mop and wipe the surface clean.
3. To prevent redeposit of dirt and oil, clean the microfiber as needed. Pay special attention to corners.

Do not pour Squeaky directly on the wood floor. Excess liquid on any hardwood floor may damage the fibers. Do not use this product with any wax-finished floors.

Real hardwood floors are always a great option! Basic Coatings is the expert in staining, sealing, finishing, and maintaining your hardwood floors.  Please go to www.basiccoatings.com for ideas and complete product information.

Myth #1: The more solids, the better.
Solids can be anything that does not evaporate during the curing process, so you have to look at what makes up the solids and what each of them does. Merely comparing finishes by percentage of solids is not an adequate test of their capabilities and performances. Finish solids are often a blend of several ingredients, each having a specific purpose. Many of these have nothing to do with how long a finish will last. These various ingredients help the finish resists scuffs, reduce bubbling, improve adhesion, alter clarity, regulate sheen, and last but not least, determine overall durability. Ingredients used to adjust sheen or to control bubbles, for example, may add to the solids, but they do nothing for the durability.

Myth #2: Taber abrasion tests are always accurate.
The only scientific data less reliable than a Taber abrasion test result is what you get from your local weatherman. The American Society of Testing and Material (ASTM) states that the accuracy of one Taber abrasion machine compared to another may vary up to a range of 90% to 106%. This is considered the normal range and means the tests can be off by 100% and still be considered accurate. These results can occur even when documented test procedures are used. In a nutshell, this is why we don’t value Taber abrasion tests as the one and only way to determine the durability of a finish.

Myth #3: Pure urethane solids are best.
Like the first myth, this one concerning urethane solids is also incorrectly based on the idea that “if a little of something is good, then a lot must be better.” Many people (and some manufacturers) think omitting acrylic will improve a waterbased coating. We’ve found the opposite to be true, and we are not alone.  Like most everything else you can buy, there are expensive acrylics and inexpensive filler acrylics, and the same is true for urethanes.  It is possible to have more expensive acrylics in a finish formula than the urethane used in the same formula. For flooring applications, urethane resins work best when blended with acrylics.

• Grain raise is normal with waterbased coatings. Don’t fret about it, just anticipate it. Screening to 120-grit or finer is a good ending point before applying stain or waterbased coating. Always follow NWFA guidelines.

• Just remember, once you apply your sealer or finish, don’t overwork the material, allow it to flow and wet itself out. Like they say, don’t watch a waterbased finish dry, just walk away.

• Read the manufacturer’s directions for mixing your finish. Some recommend shaking, others recommend stirring, but everyone recommends some way of blending the product before application. This not only allows for ease of proper application, it also prevents final appearance issues like streaking or inconsistent sheen.

• Clean and tack the floor before coating. It is even a good idea to clean the window sills and counter tops or any place where saw dust could have accumulated.

• If using a T-bar, make sure to feather out your turns. Also, many contractors like to use rollers or paint pads as it’s easier to use and control versus a T-bar. It’s a personal preference.

• Regardless of which tool you use, apply an even amount of pressure. Different pressures can lead to varying film thicknesses, which could lead to varying sheens. Be consistent with your application across the floor.

• Try to achieve the recommended coverage rates. Finishes are designed to be applied at a specific film thickness. If you apply the finish at the recommended rate, it will have a better chance to flow and level.

• Prior to application, make sure the jobsite temperature and humidity levels are acceptable. Also, make sure to turn off the HVAC system and close all windows and doors during application, which will keep the finish from drying too quickly. After about 30–60 minutes of no airflow, the finish should be level and will tack over, at which point the floor can be opened to airflow.

• Use fans to move air across the room to help the finish dry and air out the room. A well-ventilated floor makes for a strong finish.

The Basic Coatings® laboratory compared the static coefficient of friction in between StreetShoe® on wood and StreetShoe on a decal. These coatings chemists determined that there isn’t a significant difference in the static coefficient of friction in between the different substrates. Testing was conducted using the ASTM D2047 - 11 standard test method for static coefficient of friction of polish-coated flooring surfaces as measured by the James machine.

Slip resistance of floor finishes is determined by measuring the static coefficient of friction. The most common device for measuring this is the James machine. Underwriters Laboratory (UL®) developed it in the early 1940s. Laboratory test data corroborated by field experience established a minimum value of 0.5 for the static coefficient of friction for a floor finish to bear the UL seal of approval. Since then, 0.5 has become the commonly accepted threshold for classifying slip resistance in floor finishes. Furthermore, the James machine is the only recognized test method (ASTM D-2047), and the 0.5 value (as measured by the James machine) is the recognized minimum criterion for slip resistant walking surfaces in courts of law in the United States.

All Basic Coatings floor coatings are tested for slip resistance in accordance with ASTM D-2047 and meet or exceed the standard of 0.5 and are therefore considered to be slip resistant. 

Basic Coatings Floor Care Expert, Micah Petersen, is an expert witness for slip/fall cases and is also a member of the ASTM D-21 Committee on Polishes, as well as the D-21.06 Slip Resistance subcommittee.

1. Advanced durability: Waterbased finishes and sealers offer the ultimate protection for your wood floor, allowing you to safeguard your beautiful wood floor with long-lasting durability. Tested for abrasion resistance (the ability of the coating to withstand mechanical action such as scuffing or erosion), some waterbased finishes, like StreetShoe® NXT, have proven to be five times more resistant to wear than oil-modified urethane.


2. Greener/low VOCs: All Basic Coatings waterbased sealers and finishes are VOC (volatile organic compounds) compliant and can be used everywhere throughout North America. The lower the VOCs, the lower the odor. In addition to lower odor during installation, because waterbased sealers and finishes cure faster, the lower odor dissipates faster. All Basic Coatings waterbased sealers and finishes are LEED compliant. Furthermore, exposure to increased VOCs can cause health and environmental problems, so limiting them should be a top priority.

3. Design options: Whether you prefer a clear or traditional, warm amber look, Basic Coatings can offer finishes in both options to fit your style.

4. Available choices: No other manufacturer offers more sheen levels than Basic Coatings. Whether you are looking for gloss, semi-gloss, satin, or super matte, we have you covered. We even offer Pure Matte® for the most discriminating tastes. 

5. Speed of application: With the quick dry times of Basic Coatings waterbased finishes and sealers, you can actually apply more coats on the floor faster, ultimately completing jobs sooner!

6. Faster cure: In addition to completing the job sooner, floors are also back in service faster. StreetShoe NXT is the fastest-curing finish on the market, achieving 90% cure in just 24 hours.


7. Safety: Waterbased finishes are not combustible or flammable, and neither are their vapors.

There are a lot of options in floor care, and it can get overwhelming quickly. That’s why Basic Coatings® makes it easy. We’re here to educate, evaluate, and advise you on what’s best for your floors. To learn more about the advantages of waterbased finishes from Basic Coatings, click here.

As the VOC regulations tightened up in many parts of the country, oil-modified urethane solids (OMUs) have been raised in order to comply with regulations. All OMUs dry from the top down. Since higher solids with low VOC OMUs are thicker, they do not flow through the cracks as well. This causes the drying process to slow down significantly.  The surface will dry, but the liquid underneath dries so slowly that liquid may remain in the cracks of the floor boards for six to nine months.

If the humidity is high, the moisture content in wood will rise. This will cause your wood to expand and the cracks to tighten up, closing up any remaining cracks and squeezing the semi-set liquid. As the liquid is squeezed, some goes down the cracks and some rises to the surface. The portion that squeezes up will form a bump in the dried surface film with a liquid core from underneath. Poly beads usually result from jobs done in the spring, about three to four weeks on either side of Easter. That is the time of the year when the floor will have cracks open due to shrinkage from the winter months. If the finish is not completely dry between the boards by the time spring arrives, the seasonal rains will raise the ambient humidity and cause the wood to swell and squeeze out poly beads. You are more likely to encounter this problem if you cross mop with lambswool. If you start across the grain, make sure the lambswool can push enough finish down the cracks. Start in line with the grain to minimize this problem.

This is a problem that is difficult to prevent. Our best advice is to convert to waterbased sealers/finishes to prevent the issue. However, if you need to stick with OMU, try to coat wood with a heavy applicator that leaves thin films for the best drying conditions. For optimal results, make sure you have plenty of air circulation to help with the drying process.  We also recommend that you leave each coat to dry before applying the next coat.

To fix poly beads, scrape the finish with a putty knife and wipe the liquid residue with mineral spirits on a rag. This “squeezing up” will stop when one of three things happen:

1. All the liquid has squeezed out and has been wiped up.
2. The finish reaches a cure point hard enough that it can’t be squeezed out.
3. The floor will start to drop some of its moisture and the wood will shrink back, relax the pressure and the bumps will stop forming.

Note: Some contractors have added oil drying agents to their finish thinking they are speeding the dry time and acting to prevent the problem. In most cases, the problem will be worse as the surface film dries faster. The OMU needs oxygen to cure with or without drying agents.

Let’s go back a few years to 1997 when the TyKote system was first developed. Back then, the cleaning process of the TyKote system was done by wrapping towels soaked in cleaning solution around push brooms and tacking the floor. Pretty labor intensive, right?

But, bigger floors needed a bigger, better solution. This is where the idea for the Dirt Dragon was evolved.

Basic Coatings saw an opportunity in markets like gym flooring, where large automatic scrubbers were needed for agitating the cleaning solution and extracting it from the floor. Knowing that scrubbing and extracting cleaning solutions is always better than mopping, the Basic Coatings team got to work to improve the TyKote system for the residential and commercial markets.

The foundation of the TyKote system is to get beautiful floors with less mess, so the first task on the docket was to figure out how to ensure that the majority of the dirt and contaminants are removed from the floor instead of being left behind. This system would need a machine with superior mechanical agitation from the brush to help loosen unwanted dirt. One of the suggested improvements was to use a grout scrubber on wood floors.

Dirt Dragon Numero Uno

The first Dirt Dragon was a grout scrubber that was designed for scrubbing and extracting tile floors. The brush movement from a cylindrical brush is superior to a rotary brush on floors like tile in order to be able to get deep into the grouted joints between tile.

This first machine was successful at cleaning wood floors better than a mop and bucket, but it had some limitations. One of the main issues with this machine was that it was difficult to remove all water from the floor. Nonetheless, Basic Coatings had introduced an entirely new business model to flooring contractors and the system took off. This success led Basic Coatings to develop a scrubber that uniquely met the needs of wood floors.

While the first Dirt Dragon was not the first scrubber to enter the market, it was the only scrubber uniquely designed to be used on wood floors. Every other competitive scrubber marketed to the wood floor industry was first sold as a hard floor scrubber by cleaning companies. This is the key factor that sets the Dirt Dragon apart in the industry.

New and Improved

The development of the second generation Dirt Dragon had wood floors in mind first. The guiding principles for product development were:

• Water and Wood – we were sensitive to the issue that wood is hydroscopic and excessive moisture can cause problems for wood floors.
• Wood is Unique – wood is a unique surface that is different than tile, concrete or other hard surfaces. Wood can dent, splinter and scratch. The finishes can burnish or dull due to different types of abrasion.

Understanding the uniqueness of wood led to all of the machine features that the Dirt Dragon is known for today, like:

• Brush Type – brushes can come in many different specifications and Basic Coatings tested hundreds of different variations on different species of wood. The brush needs to be able to abrade the dirt without abrading the finish or scratching the wood. It needs to be flexible enough to get deep into open wood grain but stiff enough for cleaning performance. Different Brush Bristle Materials were tested. The amount of brush strands inserted into each brush holder hole were varied.
• Brush Pattern – another brush characteristic is the chevron pattern of the bristles. The entire brush needs to be wet for cleaning. Once wet, the chevron design helps funnel the cleaning solution towards the vacuum port. This pattern was chosen due to our desire to remove all solution from the floor.
• Vacuum Power – the vacuum is 2x stronger than what typically would have been specified for a floor scrubber. This ensures all solution is removed.
• Squeegee Design – the machine has forward and reverse squeegee holders and 4 squeegee sides that completely surround the brush. This design really helps to contain the solution.
• Flow Control – Most scrubbers have an on/off feature. The Dirt Dragon also has a flow control knob that allows the user to dial down the solution applied to the floor for sensitive floors.

To learn more about the Basic Coatings Dirt Dragon or the TyKote system, click here!

With more options available now more than ever, it can be difficult to decide on one particular look. Here are the wood floor trends you should know about for 2017:

Don’t be afraid of the dark. The classic, yet edgy appearance of dark hardwood is growing popularity. Its dramatic look pairs well with lighter contrasting furniture and decor. While the darker color may be harder to keep clean, it hides imperfections better.

Bigger is better. Wide plank floors add more depth to a room, giving it a fresh and modern look. This style offers diversity from your typical narrow strip flooring.

Don’t hide these grays. Who says hardwood floors have to be brown? Gray hardwood is anything but boring and gives any room a new and improved appearance. The neutral color pairs easily with almost any design, giving you free rein to be creative in your home.

Shy away from shine. The natural look of wood is beautifully understated. Putting a glossy finish sometimes takes away the simplicity of the wood floor. Adding a matte finish will keep your floor protected while preserving the classic natural look of wood.

What’s old is new. Textured wood floors add an antique element to your home. Wire brush your floors for a more aged or distressed look. To obtain an earthy, more rustic feel, try hand-scraped for a one-of-a-kind style.

Whatever trend you decide to incorporate into your home, make sure you choose the right contractor and products to bring your wood floors to life. To locate a contractor in your area or learn more about what products to use on your wood floors, please visit basiccoatings.com today!

The time between applying two coats of finish can affect the floor in a critical way. Many new homeowners, especially first-timers, are busy folks. They tend to be on the go, trying to unpack boxes, manage their families, and renovate their homes as quickly and efficiently as possible. But what is a person to do when they can’t walk on their floors because they’re being refinished? One day can make a huge difference to a mom and dad who need full access to their kitchen to pack their daughter’s lunch.

A customer’s impatience can put a lot of pressure on contractors to finish projects quickly. When refinishing hardwood floors, this can be a major mistake. There are no shortcuts to longer-lasting hardwood floors. By waiting the proper amount of time in between coats, contractors can assure their customers that they are getting the most hardness, the best durability, and the most abrasion resistance the floor finish can possibly give. Detecting when the floor is ready for recoating is fairly simple. Using a moisture meter to ensure the level of remaining moisture on the surface coat is within 1 point of the initial reading means the next coat can be safely applied.

What could go wrong if a coat is applied too early?: a major sacrifice in the hardness, durability, and abrasion resistance of the floor finish.

Hardness is one of several measurements that determines the wear properties and durability of a floor finish. Measuring hardness of a finish is done after the first day and then each day after that for the duration of a week and can be compared to other finishes.

StreetShoe® NXT waterbased wood floor finish is an excellent choice for homeowners concerned about spending so much time off their floors. This Basic Coatings® finish is the industry benchmark for waterbased finishes. Streetshoe reaches 90% of its full cure in the first day.

The research and development team at Basic Coatings is so sure of the superior hardness of StreetShoe NXT, they conducted a head-to-head hardness test against their main competitor, Bona® Traffic®.  Using the Konig Hardness Test, they found that at the end of the first day, Bona Traffic came in at about 36 on the hardness scale, while StreetShoe NXT came in at 65.  At the end of seven days, Bona Traffic came in at about 62, while StreetShoe NXT settled in at 75. Even stacked up against the competition, StreetShoe NXT wins the race for faster cure times and overall hardness when compared to Bona Traffic and Traffic HD.

StreetShoe NXT’s quick cure times and better hardness benefits everyone, because contractors can get customers back to the normal use of their floors sooner.  Newly coated floors can be lightly walked on after several hours. StreetShoe NXT has UV inhibitors which slow down damage caused by UV light.  With a low VOC content of 275, the smell is light and dissipates quickly. Depending on the situation, most customers won’t even have to spend the night out of their homes while the floor is being finished. This waterbased finish is not a combustible product, so contractors and customers can rest assured knowing the vapors are non-flammable.

Basic Coatings offers superior hardness over the competition right out of the gate. For more information on StreetShoe NXT and other superior floor finish products from Basic Coatings, call (800) 441-1934, Monday through Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

What is GHS?
In 1992, the harmonization of classification and labeling of chemicals was one of six program areas that were endorsed by the United Nations General Assembly to strengthen international efforts concerning the environmentally sound management of chemicals. GHS provides a global standard for:

• Creating classification processes that use available data on chemicals for comparison with the defined hazard criteria; and
• Communicating hazard information, as well as protective measures, on labels and safety data sheets (SDS).

What is the impact of GHS to Basic Coatings?
All Basic Coatings labeled products manufactured after June 1, 2015, will be labeled with the new GHS labels.

What changes can customers expect to see?
Between now and the June 1 deadline, we will begin the transition to the GHS labels and SDS:

• Labels will now have pictograms surrounded by a red diamond shaped border for materials that have health or physical hazards.
• The name material safety data sheet (MSDS) will change to safety data sheet (SDS).
• GHS requires the adoption of a new 16-section format of SDS as the standard, which is the same as our current Basic Coatings MSDS.
• Certain standardized precautionary statements are required on SDS and labels.

To help better understand GHS, we have put together a list of frequently asked questions. 

Q. How will the user know the SDS is the new GHS version?

A. The SDS sheet will be labeled Safety Data Sheet and not Material Safety Data Sheet, will contain the 16 specified sections, and have its GHS classification and Pictograms in Section 2 if applicable.

Q.  When do the new SDS sheets and labels have to be provided by manufacturer?

A.  June 1, 2015

Q.  When do the new SDS sheets and labels have to be provided by the distributor?

A. New SDS Sheets must be provided by June 1, 2015.  New labels by December 1, 2015

Q. Is there a deadline for end users to use chemicals with current labeling?

A. No, currently OSHA has not issued any use date.  From an OSHA perspective, customers may use current inventories until they are depleted.

Q. Will a facility need to keep old MSDS sheets?

A. Yes.  Manufacturers, distributors and end user employers must keep old safety data sheets for 30 years or equivalent records containing the chemical identity and information.

Q. During the transition period, June 1, 2015 until December 1, 2015, can an end user have the option to use either the old MSDS or the new SDS sheet?

A. No.  A distributor or end user employer should acquire or request the GHS SDS by June 1, 2015.  A distributor can continue to sell the older version label until December 1, 2015.  A customer can continue to use a product with the older version label but must refer to the new GHS SDS for the product.

Q. Could there be more than one GHS Pictogram on a label and SDS?

A. Yes.  If there is more than one hazard, multiple Pictograms may be used.

Q. If the product is not classified hazardous, will it require a Pictogram?

A.  No, only chemicals classified as hazardous.

Q.  Can Pictograms have a black border?

A.  No.  The Pictogram must have a red border, white background and black hazard symbols.

Q.  Do I need to have an SDS for every chemical used in the facility?

A.  No, only if it is a hazardous material.  But as a best practice users should request SDS for all chemical products used by an employee in their normal job function.

Q. Will DOT Hazard Labels be on product containers in addition to the new GHS Pictograms?

A.  Potentially.  Shipping cartons and containers will have DOT hazard labels and product containers will have the GHS Pictograms.  If a product container is also the shipping container, such as a 55 gal drum, both the hazard label and the GHS pictograms will appear on it.

Q.  Do I need to update the facility HAZCOM Program with the new GHS requirements.

A.  Yes.

Basic Coatings is committed to complying with the requirements of HCS 2012/GHS and is taking every step necessary to ensure that we are prepared to successfully transition to the new GHS label and SDS formats in the U.S. by the June 1 deadline.